Featured Designer_ Zak Parmley

Age_ 23

Where did you study_ Parsons School of Design

What year did you graduate_ 2020

What inspired you to start upcycling discarded materials_

I wanted to challenge my own relationship with “waste” in fashion - scraps: and manipulate them into luxurious designs. This collection, RE(F)USE, communicates my frustrations and fears for the future, by working through the lens of my appreciation for discarded offcuts. It’s an approach to design that refuses raw textiles during production as a method of keeping fibers in circulation. After visiting an overflowing 20th century landfill in Brooklyn, the textile developments came from what I documented on the beach. It was both grotesque and fascinating! 

What materials do you use in your work_

My work is definitely a bricolage of anything I can get my hands on. I tend to start with a base fabric: a garment or scrap that is usually of a nicer quality, then I add other pieces or fibers like plastic or shoddy to it. I always look to traditional craft methods like quilting or embroidering to add depth to the textile. It’s mostly about layering fabric to create fascinating color combinations or textures that become special details in the garment.

Where do you find your materials_ 

These garments are constructed from upcycled materials with unknown origins. I source from local thrift stores and deadstock textile warehouses including Fabscrap and Materials for the Arts. I heard about Fabscrap through a professor at Parsons. They support the local creative community by supplying offcuts and deadstock fabric and sample designs from local New York designers by preventing the fabric from entering the landfill. You can volunteer for a few hours by helping sort fabric in exchange for up to 5 pounds of free fabric. This not only helped me financially for my graduation collection, but I was preventing these textiles from being discarded.  

How does the process of upcycling inform your work_

I think upcycling is a mentality that challenges the perception of “waste” as something useless, and frames it as valuable in this otherwise destructive system. Taking something with negative connotations and manipulating it into a desirable garment is what is so alluring to me. I see this as the aspirational couture method of the future.  

What role does upcycling play in the fashion industry today_

I think it’s great that sustainability has become more visible in fashion, even a trend; I wasn’t aware of the impact that the production of raw materials has on the environment until I studied upcycling for my thesis collection. COVID was a bit of a wake up call to young designers, especially as we all were in quarantine trying to finish our collections. Suddenly fabric wasn’t available and we had to get creative with what was in our immediate possession 

What about in the future? How do you see the craft evolving_

I’m optimistic there will be more independent designers that are going to help shift fashion towards a smaller scale of production with more made to measure designs. With that, there will be more innovative ways of upcycling textiles, merging technology with traditional craft in order to reduce waste. 

What is the role of the designer in these times_

I think the role of the designer right now is to add a little bit of fantasy to daily life, as we all could use a little joy in these times. There is a way to be playful and adventurous that is not destructive. For me, upcycling happens to be a technique that encourages innovation with restriction of supply resulting in numerous possibilities of design.  

If you could change one thing about the fashion industry, what would it be_

The contemporary fashion industry revolves around the destructive cycle of trashing a garment after one or two wears to show the wearer’s wealth and ability to stay on trend. That aspect must stop. We need to focus more on small-scale production and custom designs focusing on slow fashion methods of quality and care.

What advice would you give other young designers_

We should be focusing on specific details within design. Whether that’s fabrication, tailoring, draping, or sustainable approaches, it’s important to know what you stand for. We all want to have our voices heard in this monstrous industry, but I think finding a niche group that appreciates and understands your work is more valuable than mass recognition.

What’s next for you_

I want to gain more experience in the industry so I can build my own label in the future. Being able to work at a brand and incorporate my upcycling and innovative textile methods within a team is ideal, while learning the techniques of production. I will also continue to create custom pieces in the meantime.    

— Zak Parmley is a Portland, Oregon designer who lives and works in Brooklyn. / @zakparmley_