In October of 2024, Kathleen Sorbara debuted her new, thoughtfully refined 20th century vintage collection: SORBARA’S. Formerly Chickee’s Vintage, the go-to vintage destination for New York’s best dressed, Sorbara established herself as an expert at sourcing designer pieces that can effortlessly be styled with contemporary labels like The Row and Lemaire. Display Copy recently caught up with Sorbara to learn more about the beloved evolution of Chickee’s Vintage and pick her brain on “capsule” wardrobes, creative muses, and fall vintage trends.
Display Copy: Before we talk about the infamous Chickee’s Vintage and the re-brand and opening of your new store, Sorbara’s—tell us a bit about yourself. How did your career in modeling transition into a career in sourcing vintage and starting a business?
Kathleen: I grew up in Florida—I started modeling in Miami at the age of 12 and would always go to Goodwills and consignment stores in my hometown with my mother. She taught me how to identify a good pair of shoes, “are they Italian leather soles?” Or, a good belt, “Lalique has the nicest mother of pearl buckles” and so on. The beginnings of my “taste” definitely goes hand in hand with my time spent as a young model. I vividly remember my first time at a true vintage store—Fly Boutique on Lincoln Rd in South Beach. Probably some time around 2007. I purchased a pair of burgundy Ferragamo ankle boots and wore them to so many of my castings throughout that time in my life. I eventually moved to New York to pursue my modeling career further, and found myself in the thrift and vintage stores here in my downtime, speaking with shopkeepers and other like-minded collectors, gaining knowledge and finding the best deals. I started out selling clothes on the side of the road—a friend and I were looking to clean out our closets. Roughly ten years later, the business has evolved into our new 1000 sq ft flagship in the middle of Williamsburg.
Display Copy: Have you noticed that your sourcing style has evolved over the years? If so, in what ways do you feel like you’ve grown and changed alongside Chickee’s Vintage and vice versa?
Kathleen: My relationships with the people that I source from have developed, we trust and know each other’s needs more. I always say that Chickee’s is so personal and a reflection of my life experience. I kept going back and forth between keeping the “Chickee’s” name for our new space, but our collection and my point of view has changed so much since I opened Chickee’s for its first pop up in 2018. I was 22, a baby in Brooklyn. I really feel that “Chickee” grew into herself in those spaces (the women’s and men’s stores on N 7th St) and became a fully realized vision. For the last year or so we’ve changed our direction a bit, still holding onto some of the same ethos in regards to what I’m looking for when I source… but also taking some chances on some more avant garde pieces that ring truer to my influences lately. I’m a little stronger and more confident as a woman and a business owner, so taking that leap and changing the name feels right for me and for what the brand represents now.
Display Copy: Could you tell us more about the opening of your new store?
Kathleen: Our new location will be on S1 and Wythe, in the old Oroboro/Beautiful Dreamers space if you were around for those days. We are working on creating a larger emphasis on the service aspect of the business. Maybe a little wine or tea poured on the weekends, or an opportunity to hang out for a bit on our new couch and “living area” in the space. I’m very grateful to my interior designer Daniel Lonnstrom.
Display Copy: Everything you curate has so much romance involved with it. Who or what are some of your muses?
Kathleen: My biggest muse this past year has been my boyfriend. I met him because I was subletting his apartment, and it was the sexiest apartment I’ve ever sublet (LOL). His knowledge for culture, fashion, music, politics, movies, everything is so extensive and his personal style reflects that. Our interests intersect in a way that creates a really meaningful conversation that has helped me grow so much in my tastes. I love him so much for that.
Display Copy: How would you describe your personal style right now, at this moment?
Kathleen: Well, this past year my hips totally changed. I think it’s something that your body does when you’re nearing 30. None of my clothes fit me in the way that they used to, so I sold off a lot of my old clothes in the store and invested in a higher quality “capsule” wardrobe. If I could choose three words to describe my style at the moment I’d say that it’s timeless, elegant, and daring at times.
Display Copy: What are some of your favorite styling tips?
Kathleen: Accessorize! I absolutely have a shoe problem. And a bag problem. I guess an overall accessory problem! An accessory as simple as a hairclip can change a whole look. The wrong shoes will ruin a whole look. I have 3 or 4 pairs of more extravagant earrings that I wear on special occasions—I believe in having my “nice earrings” for “nice occasions” and not having a million different options to choose from.
Display Copy: Can you list a few of the vintage pieces that you cherish in your personal collection?
Kathleen: I wear a white gold band every day that my father gave to my mother. I also have a moth-eaten Phillips Academy practice jersey tee of my father’s that I wear to bed all the time. My most cherished possessions are the ones that have outlived me and stayed in my family. I drunkenly coaxed my grandmother into giving me the gold earrings she’s worn for the past 30 years right off of her ears on a trip home—we were both drunk at happy hour and we finally came to an agreement that I needed them and couldn’t leave Florida without them.
Display Copy: How has being based in NYC and being a part of the vintage community here impacted your experience as a business owner?
Kathleen: I think paying respect to the dealers that came before me and paved the way is really important. Vintage involves history and I’m not the first person to be selling old wares in NYC. I frequently shop at other vintage stores and with other vintage dealers in the city—I think it’s important to support local businesses just as much as some of us love to support The Real Real and eBay. There’s a massive network of dealers in New York (and all over the world.) Owning a small business can be really isolating and confusing so I think it’s important to keep in touch with other dealers and small business owners. My team and I have a wonderful relationship with our favorite deli owner. He and I always check in about the flow of the neighborhood, like which weekends feel busy and which months feel slow. Community is important.
Display Copy: What designers are you most drawn to for vintage pieces?
Kathleen: I’m always drawn to Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, and the old Barneys NY house label.
Display Copy: Can you recall a particular memory that stands out to you in your sourcing?
Kathleen: There’s a woman in this antique mall in the tri-state area who has religiously set up her booth every Saturday for the past 10 years. I’ve never gone to her booth and missed her. She mends and washes all of her clothes herself, she deals particularly in pre-1950s undergarments, amongst other treasures. The last visit I had with her I was trying on all of her feathered 1940s and 50s hats, but I couldn’t find the right one. She’s patient and knowledgeable and loves to describe each garment. We’ve had long talks about buttons and clasps. I’ve found some of the most extravagant and unique Edwardian and Victorian skirts and slips from her. I’ve watched her grow older as time has gone on and it slowly breaks my heart, knowing that one day her generation of dealers won’t be around anymore.
Display Copy: You’ve been known to source some of the best vintage graphic tees. What’s one memorable rare or archival tee that you’ve found?
Kathleen: I was out in California with Nathan this past winter and we were living in Topanga Canyon. Our winding drives up and down the canyon definitely were the breeding ground for some great playlists. I just came across a “Listen Without Prejudice” George Michael tee that is so cool it is almost unwearable.
Display Copy: What have you been listening to lately?
Kathleen: I’ve been listening to a lot of early Sun-Ra, the “Expansions” channel on NTS radio is great. I’ve also been loving WBGO 88.3 on my drives to the shop this summer and fall.
Display Copy: Looking ahead, how do you see Sorbara’s growing or evolving over the next 5-10 years?
Kathleen: I’d like to organically scale, if possible. Maybe another store in LA. I hope to start a family in that timeline, so I’m looking forward to seeing the business evolve while my family grows as well.
Display Copy: How will you be wearing vintage this Fall?
Kathleen: Darker wash denim for sure. Big sweaters as always. Also, pairing my vintage with some of the bigger designers at the moment who truly understand quality and vintage patterns—Phoebe Philo, The Row, Lemaire. I’m in a deep pony hair rabbit hole right now. I’ve sourced a few really special pony hair items for the store recently that have already been purchased; I think it’s totally the fabric of the season.