1_ Julien Sanders
Location_ By Appointment Only
j.sanders@danysan.be
@julien_sanders
When did you open your store and why?
I started 8 years ago in Brussels, and then about 4 years ago I arrived in Paris.
Best piece you've ever found?
A Paco Rabanne Haute Couture Dress from the 1980s.
Current items in stock that you can’t stop looking at?
Pretty much all my Mugler pieces as well as 2 evening dresses by Miss Dior circa 1970s, that I found when I first started out.
What is the most worn item in your wardrobe?
A pair of Patagonia cargo shorts.
What is the most precious item in your wardrobe?
A men's Mugler suit and a Gaultier Sweater.
Where do you find inspiration?
Instagram and on the street.
2_ GAIJIN Paris
Location_ 20 rue du Pont aux Choux 75003
www.gaijinparis.com
@gaijinparis
When did you open your store and why?
We started in 2018 with pop up stores and our website. We opened the boutique last September (2020). We only carry Japanese brands and designers and we believe that human and physical connections with the pieces we stock is better.
How would you describe the store’s aesthetic?
The store is minimalistic. It represents a Japanese"machiya" - a wooden house from the Meiji era - with Japanese references, painted on the walls in black and white. At Gaijin, the clothes must speak first.
What’s the price point?
From €10 for an XL Gaijin Paris safety pin to €40-50 for some shirts from Kenzo and small Japanese brands to €1000 for a magnificent Issey Miyake coat from 1982, which is probably going to end up in a museum.
Current item in stock that you can’t stop looking at?
Junya Watanabe deconstructed and modular coat, full of strings to play with.
The one that got away?
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus black plastic tank.
Five things everyone needs in their wardrobe?
1. Volume
2. Multiple lengths to play with layering
3. Accessories
4. Hats
5. Hakama style pants
Bring back...
Culottes and sarouel shapes
Best piece of shopping advice you’ve ever gotten?
Go to Japan.
Most played song in-store at the moment?
Mariya Takeuchi - Plastic Love (Japanese city pop)
Soichi Terada feat Nami Shimada - Sunshower (Japanese house).
Best neighborhood spot for pre-shopping caffeination?
Oultma, on our street!
Best neighborhood spot for post shopping drinks and eats?
Pontochoux (Japanese curries and street food)
Distrito Frances (revisited Mexican food)
What are you wearing right now?
T: An oversized long shirt by Margiela, an apron belted large pant by Yohji Yamamoto and a cropped gilet from 45 RPM with tabi Margiela converse
C: An oversized Issey Miyake shirt, a comme des garçons checkered balloon pant and a pair of Y-3.
What is the most worn item in your wardrobe?
T: Comme des Garçons long padded culottes circa late 90’s
C: Homme plissé Issey Miyake belted Hakama pants.
Where do you find inspiration?
In Japan.
Last thing you bought?
T: A poncho/cape coat by Kansai Yamamoto from 1982, full of pockets.
C: Wide balloon CDG checkered pants.
Your holy-grail/ something you’re dying to source?
T: More Kansai crazy works
C: More Homme Plissé Issey Miyake architectural works.
Top tip for thrifting/ shopping vintage?
Be patient. Go to Japan and check out our map of the best thrift shops in Tokyo.
3_ Kelly Miller Vintage
Location_ By Appointment Only
Kellymillervintage.com
@kellymillervintage
When did you open your store and why?
After the first Covid confinement in summer 2020, following a job layoff and several years of working in and around the vintage world as an editor and buyer.
How would you describe the store’s aesthetic?
An homage to the best of 20th century fashion, with an emphasis on bold prints, strong colors and inventive patternmaking.
What’s the price point?
From €50 vintage French boutique labels to a €5k FW1991 Alaïa leopard catsuit.
The one that got away?
Look no. 5 from Prada's FW2008 collection, a 3-piece navy guipure lace set with halter top, peplum, and pencil skirt, worn by Linda Evangelista in the campaign. I bought it NWT a decade ago on ebay from a recovering shopaholic and probably wore it less than ten times due to the fact I'm a daily cyclist, and guipure lace pencil skirts just don't really fit into the lifestyle. That said, I was happy to send it out into the world before it was past its peak, condition-wise, and I tripled my investment. Clothes age like we do, and we can't hoard everything for the climate apocalypse.
If you could do a style pull from the store for anyone (alive or dead) who would it be and what would you pull for them?
I'd put David Bowie in the SS1989 Junior Gaultier leopard corset-seam gilet, with the hem belt worn at the waist.
Best piece of shopping advice you’ve ever gotten?
Avoid the "sample sale" effect – buying something just because it's comparatively the best thing amongst a pile of duds.
Most played song in-store at the moment?
"Watching the Wheels,” John Lennon, Double Fantasy
Best neighborhood spot for pre-shopping caffeination?
A café allongé at any typical corner bistrot in Paris. Otherwise, The Beans on Fire in northern Montmartre.
Best neighborhood spot for post shopping drinks and eats?
Shinjuku Pigalle, in the 9ème. The place is plastered with vintage Japanese cinema posters, and the gyoza are home-made.
What is the most worn item in your wardrobe?
A navy wool notch-collar blazer by Véronique Branquinho, bought many years ago at the cult Antwerp consignment store, Labels Inc. One side of the collar is tripled (eg. there are 3 lapels) for an asymmetric effect. It's the perfect twisted-classic that's seen me through many meetings, interviews, and nights on the town. Haven't worn it in a long time but I can't bear to get rid of it; Belgians make the best clothes.
Where do you find inspiration?
Marché Paul Bert Serpette at the flea market, les Puces de Clignancourt.
Your holy-grail/ something you’re dying to source?
This might sound cheesy, but I've always been obsessed with the yellow silk cheongsam dress in Roberto Cavalli's FW2003 campaign. Otherwise, the moulded leather lace-up top worn by Aimee Mullins in Alexander McQueen's SS1999 show, or his "Irere" rainbow chiffon dress, look no. 49 from the SS2003 collection. Basically everything that was big when I was in fashion school.
Top tip for thrifting/ shopping vintage?
Leave no stone unturned. I once found a late 90s McQueen suit in a Marylebone (LDN) Oxfam.
4_ Hier Vintage
Location_ 8 rue du pont aux choux 75003 Paris France
@hiervintage
When did you open your store and why?
Five years ago, because I love Fashion and especially clothes
How would you describe the store’s aesthetic?
I’m interested in sourcing pieces based on style rather than specific brands.
What’s the price point?
From 80 to 1500 euros.
Current item in stock that you can’t stop looking at?
A vest from Margiela’s 1998 runway show.