Emma Zack is the founder and curator of Berriez, a size-inclusive vintage and upcycled design collection that elevates second-hand style with heart and flair. Display Copy originally featured Zack and her bespoke sweater collection back in 2021; since then, she’s gone on to collaborate with a myriad of trend-setting upcycling designers across the globe. It’s Zack’s expertise as a stylist that makes her collection at Berriez so spectacular. She knows how to put together a look that celebrates the body underneath. We recently caught up with Zack to pick her brain on the evolution of her personal style, new design collaborations, and learn more about what makes Berriez so sweet.  

Display Copy: As the founder of Berriez, you’ve been a trailblazer in the vintage and upcycling industry. How did your love for clothing evolve into a business?

Emma: I've always been interested in clothes. Ever since I was two years old I've been dressing myself and then I started styling my mom when I was a bit older. As I'm sure you've read in my press, my grandmother was a fashion icon… my mom tells me that I just have it in my blood from her. I grew up trying on my grandmother's clothes—I actually never met her but I’m named after her. So, clothing has always been something really special to me and I feel like it was my grandma who taught me how to see clothes as a way of self-expression. 

When I was in high school I started shopping at thrift stores and then I got really into it in college. I couldn’t really find stuff in retail stores that would fit me and at the time I was a size 10-12 so it shouldn't have been that hard. But I also wanted to wear stuff that was unique and that no one else had—I’m one of those people that likes to be the only one wearing something. [laughs] In college I studied criminology and sociology and then I started working in that field after graduating. I worked at the Innocence Project for six years which was super depressing, as you can imagine. During that time I got really into shopping for vintage on Instagram… remember in 2017 how that was such a thing? [laughs] But, I would buy stuff and then it wouldn't fit right, and I'd think, “there must be other plus-size people out there who want vintage clothing but can't find their size.” Berriez just kind of blossomed from that. I started with a rack of my personal stuff and then shortly thereafter I started sourcing and literally couldn't stop. I've been doing this everyday for the past five years because I can't stop. So, what started as a way to just have a little bit of creative freedom from my corporate job became this business.

Display Copy: So Berriez basically started on Instagram?

Emma: Yeah! I recently found the first post I ever did which is really funny. I didn't start doing Berriez full-time until the end of 2020/early 2021, so I worked both jobs for about two years before it just became too much. My mom is an entrepreneur herself and she was like, “Emma, you have to take a risk and just do it.” I was terrified, but I took the risk. It was definitely worth it. 

Display Copy: Your grandmother was such a fashion inspiration for you. Do you still wear any of her pieces?

Emma: I actually just found this silk polka dot dress of hers that’s a bit too small for me so I asked a friend who works with silk to remake it. Funny enough, I was showing the dress to my mom right before this call. She asked to have a shirt made from the fabric too. So now we'll both have matching pieces made from my grandmother’s dress! There’s also this gorgeous black lace dress with long sleeves that I gave to one of my best friends because it fit her perfectly. I think that’s also a gorgeous way to remember my grandma.

Display Copy: How else has your love for fashion evolved over the years? 

Emma: I've definitely noticed changes in the past few years. When I was still working my corporate job I was dressing more conservatively, but then I started really leaning into colors and mixing prints and all that stuff. I would call it “loud” dressing. But as of last year I’ve kind of toned it down a little. I love bright colors and I still love prints but I wouldn't wear them together anymore. I've been trying to refine my style and still keep it unique, just less loud. 

Display Copy: Does your personal style translate to Berriez and what you curate for the shop? 

Emma: Definitely. When I started Berriez I was doing a lot of prints and color. Some of my customers love the loud, crazy stuff, but as I've expanded, I've seen that less and less people want that. I feel like a lot of plus-size clothing is already so loud. Where are all of the sleek and stylish options that straight size folks get? So now I’m curating more elevated and refined pieces.

Display Copy: What's been your experience sourcing those pieces?

Emma: I have a list of “likes” and “don't likes” because it's gotten a lot harder to source vintage compared to five years ago. I really can't go in only looking for "cream-colored stuff" because I might only find one thing. Instead, I’ll go in with a certain style of Levi's I want to find or garments made from natural fibers. I don't like shift dresses because I know those aren't great on a plus-size body. I don't like polyester. But, plus-size clothing wasn't manufactured until the 80s and a lot of it was manufactured with polyester… so, I have to be a little flexible sometimes.

I feel like I have an understanding for what to curate because I'm plus-size myself. I know I don't want a “floral cold shoulder” or whatever. With that being said, plus-size pickings are slim… funny enough. [laughs] So I kind of have to work with what I can get. I've started sourcing a lot more men's vintage recently because I’ve been wearing it and figured my customers would like that too. 

Display Copy: Can you recall a memory of a piece you soured that really resonated with you? 

Emma: There's so many. I love finding lace and sheer pieces. One thing lacking from the plus-size clothing marketplace is elevated, sexy clothes. With that being said, I found these pleated, lace trousers that are also kind of sheer. They're so good. Whenever I find anything lace or mesh, I'm like, “this is a win for the girls.”

The problem with vintage though is that garments really only go up to a size 24, which is about a modern-day size 20 or a 2X. I can't find everything I want for Berriez with vintage, which is why I've started to work with emerging designers to fill in those gaps. 

Display Copy: Could you tell us more about the collaboration process between upcycling designers and Berriez?

Emma: The process is different for each designer. So, for my airbrush designer [Femlord]—I source all the vintage pieces and then she puts her designs on. Or, I recently sourced a bunch of denim skirts and then I sent them to Shop Journal for her to add the grommets on. Some designers will already have the materials and just send me stuff. But at this point, I have to approve everything that’s being sent because one time we got sent leopard print... We don’t do that at Berriez. That's a print that plus size people have been fed over and over and reminds me too much of Torrid from 2005, you know what I mean? So, I'm always having the final say and approving fits and styles. 

Display Copy: Who are some of the upcycling designers that are most popular with your customers at Berriez? 

Emma: I love everyone that I work with. Some of the best selling designers we have are Nena Hansen—she uses men's button downs and adds little cinches on the side. Fyoocher is another one, she uses deadstock fabric to make these amazing corsets and they just look so good on everyone. It's kind of amazing… and you don't wear a bra with them! I love makmak—she’s such a genius because she makes these skirts that can fit a size S-5X. They’re all made with vintage and second-hand fabrics too. 

Display Copy: Do you have any future collaborations in the works that you're excited about? 

Emma: I just placed an order with lizziekidd! She's a designer in LA and makes these amazing baby doll dresses from deadstock realtree fabric. We worked on the fit together and they look so great. I think the girls are going to love it.

Display Copy: As a leader in the plus-size vintage and upcycling industry, what are you the most proud of when it comes to Berriez? 

Emma: I'm really proud of the community that I've built and I love that I created a space where people can be excited about shopping instead of terrified. When people come to know Berriez they freak out. So many of us have had difficult experiences shopping. Berriez is healing. It’s a safe space for everyone. Once you know about Berriez, you love it, which is really cool.