Display Copy first featured Natalie Brown as an emerging designer to lookout for in 2021. Back then, Brown was a recent Parsons School of Design graduate and her brand, NMB New York was just getting off the ground. Since then, three years have passed and Brown’s sustainable streetwear designs have grown to be internationally renowned and coveted by top trend-setting celebrities and influencers alike. This past spring, Display Copy sat down with Brown to talk shop.
Display Copy: Bring us up to speed. What’s new with you and NMB New York?
Natalie: Well, most recently we were featured on Selling Sunset! Amanza Smith wore our Reversible Puffer Crop Vest for one of the episodes. I had the chance to meet her at NYFW. She happened to be wearing some of my pieces to the shows and told me that she loved the brand. That was really exciting. The first celeb to ever wear one of my designs was Evan Mock. I was honestly processing that for months. But to this day, my biggest ‘fangirl moment’ was seeing Ashley Benson wear the Reversible T-Shirt Puffer Jacket because I grew up watching Pretty Little Liars. My inner child was like, “There's no way!”
We've also been featured in British Vogue and British GQ. Last year, we were part of a London Fashion Week pop-up which was great because people got to see the brand in an international context. Being able to be ‘in person’ is a whole different experience.
Display Copy: Have you noticed any changes in the sustainable fashion world as your brand has grown?
Natalie: Sustainability is having a big moment right now. There are a lot of new upcyclers on the scene and people in general are becoming more conscious of the damage that the fashion industry can do. The more people who know what upcycling is means that I don't have to explain it as much. That was a bit of a challenge early on. A lot of people didn’t realize that my designs were made with repurposed fabric. I deconstruct t-shirts to make all of these pieces. They thought I just printed these graphics on! [laughs] But it's ok either way. My audience is very broad—there are the people who care about sustainability and the people who just think the products look cool.
Display Copy: What’s your sourcing practice like? The t-shirts that you’re upcycling are pretty rare and iconic.
Natalie: I love vintage in general. When I initially started the brand, I was trying to finish my Sustainable Design thesis at Parsons School of Design during lockdown, so I was kind of forced to just use what I had at my disposal. And I have a lot of vintage t-shirts! I'm currently wearing a vintage NASCAR one. [laughs]
Anytime I travel, I shop for vintage tees. I go to DC, Maryland, Atlanta, Chicago. All over. One of the best feelings is going into an unknown vintage store and finding a really great piece. And I have standing relationships with stores in New York and when I go I just wipe them out. [laughs] But it's a meticulous process. You have to look for stains and holes and analyze the quality of the fabric—if it's too thin, it's not going to be a piece that will last a long time. I like that challenge. And, like you said, these are rare t-shirts so there’s also a cost to that. One t-shirt could be anywhere from $100 to $500 depending on its rarity. And I use a dozen t-shirts to make one jacket.
Display Copy: After you find these great vintage tees, what happens next?
Natalie: The design process is about bringing various stories and memories together in one creation. There’s so much character in every finished garment because each shirt has lived a past life. I once found a racing t-shirt that was signed by the driver, and someone ended up with that signature. At one point in time, that shirt was probably priceless to somebody and somehow it ended up in my hands. I think it’s beautiful to consider where clothing has been before you.
I plan out the theme of each piece by picking out a couple shirts that I like and then building upon that. The alignment of each individual graphic is huge. I have to be really committed as I’m positioning them and cutting them out. Everytime I reach the end result it's always a surprise to me. I don't think I'm ever going to get bored with upcycling.
When you make something by hand, it’s your baby and then you get to see it out in the world. It’s hard to describe what that feels like. When you purchase an NMB design, it's a one-of-one, so it’s an original. I've also had zero returns ever. So people seem to be very satisfied.
Display Copy: Have you always had an affinity for streetwear?
Natalie: I’ve always liked streetwear. It's the polar opposite style of the area where I'm from. I grew up in Peachtree City, Georgia, which is a small, conservative town. There wasn't a lot of diversity so I was always trying to find my individuality and differentiate myself. I went to a private school with dress codes and was known for getting in trouble with my outfits. I just liked to go outside of the rules.
After moving to New York, I got to let loose and explore my style. And I’m glad that I'm able to present a product that’s considered luxury and in the same bracket as other elevated streetwear brands. I never want to put myself in a box by defining what my personal style is. If I like it, I'll wear it. It just comes down to confidence.
Display Copy: Kind of like your motto: Look Good, Feel Good, Do Good.
Natalie: Exactly. I want people to feel confident wearing my pieces. Clothing can be armor and a beautiful form of self-expression. Clothing cognition is tied to the brain. If you don't feel confident in what you're wearing, you won’t act confidently. I really just want to celebrate who everyone is as individuals. Our customers aren’t afraid to stand out and be noticed for who they are.
Display Copy: Puffer jackets and bustiers couldn’t be more different in their design and function. Can you talk more about what ‘clothing as armor’ means to you?
Natalie: I'm definitely multifaceted. I love to live in oversized, comfortable clothing, but I also like to feel sexy every now and again. I wanted to make a bustier that was flattering and girly while also maintaining a cool factor. There wasn’t really anything I liked on the market that had a street edge.
It’s so personally rewarding to see people wearing my pieces—they always look empowered and that's all I want. Clothing is powerful.
Display Copy: What else inspires your creative practice?
Natalie: I used to be a competitive dancer so sometimes I take classes in New York. It’s always a really cathartic experience. Or, I’ll people watch on the subway. It’s just so inspiring because no one looks the same! That's something I love about living in New York.
Display Copy: Do you have any advice for up and coming sustainable fashion designers?
Natalie: I want to elevate the message that sustainability can be cool and you can be sustainable without sacrificing style. There’s always more to be explored in that space. It’s definitely not the easiest route to go, because if it was, every brand would be doing it and we wouldn’t have a problem. But it’s so rewarding. Design with purpose. Plus, there's so much freedom in it. There's always going to be new ways to innovate and new ways to be sustainable. Designing a piece that doesn’t look “upcycled” proves the point that we don't need to use and produce new fabrics. We already have so much at our disposal. It's just about having the creativity to find new ways of using it.
