THE (RE)GENERATION

Open-hearted, inventive, and nothing if not resourceful, the following twelve international designers have emerged as leading lights of today’s upcycling movement. From discarded tents to old newsprint, this (Re)generation, as we call it, deploys a shockingly broad range of materials to varied ends. But these agents of change speak the same language: they upcycle not for the gratuitous sake of upcycling but rather to give voice to a pungent dialect of social commentary, responsible stewardship, and joyful expression.

PHOTOGRAPHY_ JASON THOMAS GEERING

STYLING_ BRYNN HEMINWAY

ELLIE WEARS_ ‘RE(F)USE’ SLASHED SHIRT_ UPCYCLED FROM DEADSTOCK FABRICS AND SCRAP MATERIALS_ ZAK PARMLEY_ FW2021

NYAYOP WEARS_ ‘VANGUARD ANORAK’_ UPCYCLED FROM DEADSTOCK NYLON_ SASKIA LENAERTS_ THE ‘DISARMED’ COLLECTION / ‘GUNSLINGER KNIT’_ UPCYCLED FROM BRITISH ARMY WOOL REMNANTS_ SASKIA LENAERTS_ THE ‘DISARMED’ COLLECTION / ‘OUT-VERTED CARGO TROUSERS’_ UPCYCLED FROM U.S. MILITARY RIPSTOP NYLON COMBAT CARGO PANTS_ SASKIA LENAERTS_ THE ‘DISARMED’ COLLECTION / BOOTS_ MODEL’S OWN

“In order to educate and inspire, designers really need to be in touch with the world more than ever. It’s no longer good enough to represent some fantasy. We’re living in such a political and polarized world that what we do needs to be more grounded and needs to have more meaning.” — Saskia Lenaerts is a transnational designer who lives and works in London. / @lenaerts_saskia

MAYA WEARS_ ‘BUFFER PUFFER’_ UPCYCLED FROM DEADSTOCK NYLON, TAFFETA AND REPURPOSED DUCK DOWN FROM VINTAGE ARCTIC MILITARY SLEEPING BAGS_ SASKIA LENAERTS_ THE ‘DISARMED’ COLLECTION / ‘DECOMMISSIONED KNIT’_ UPCYCLED FROM BRITISH WOOL AIRFORCE SWEATERS_ SASKIA LENAERTS_ THE ‘DISARMED’ COLLECTION / BOOTS AND SOCKS_ MODEL’S OWN

NYAYOP WEARS_ ‘VANGUARD ANORAK’_ UPCYCLED FROM DEADSTOCK NYLON_ SASKIA LENAERTS_ THE ‘DISARMED’ COLLECTION / ‘GUNSLINGER KNIT’_ UPCYCLED FROM BRITISH ARMY WOOL REMNANTS_ SASKIA LENAERTS_ THE ‘DISARMED’ COLLECTION / ‘OUT-VERTED CARGO TROUSERS’_ UPCYCLED FROM U.S. MILITARY RIPSTOP NYLON COMBAT CARGO PANTS_ SASKIA LENAERTS_ THE ‘DISARMED’ COLLECTION / BOOTS_ MODEL’S OWN

JAY WEARS_ ‘DANGER POLICE’ JACKET_ CUSTOMIZED HAND-ME-DOWN LEATHER VINTAGE POLICE JACKET_ SCOOTER LAFORGE FOR PATRICIA FIELD ARTFASHION_ AW2021 / T-SHIRT_ MODEL’S OWN

AOFIE WEARS_ CUSTOMIZED DEADSTOCK RIB KNIT TANK_ STYLIST’S ARCHIVE / ‘PASTORAL SHAKER PANT’_ UPCYCLED FROM 1980S BURBERRY TRENCH COAT AND ALYX VINYL TROUSERS_ DURAN LANTINK_ SSAW2021 / BOOTS_ MODEL’S OWN

“Everything I do is sustainable, but it hasn’t been consciously that way — it’s just my way of working. Some people say I’m a designer, some say I’m a stylist, and others say I’m an artist. Now I’m an upcycler. But as long as I can do what I want to do, I don’t really care.” — Duran Lantink is a Dutch designer who lives and works in Amsterdam. / @duranlantinkyo

KATIE WEARS_ ‘ZeBRA’_ UPCYCLED FROM THRIFTED LEATHER HEELS_ RONJA BERG_ SS2022 / ‘MESSY LEGGINGS’_ UPCYCLED FROM COTTON LEGGINGS, NYLON STOCKINGS AND COIN PURSES_ RONJA BERG_ SS2022

JAY WEARS_ ‘DANGER POLICE’ JACKET_ CUSTOMIZED HAND-ME-DOWN LEATHER VINTAGE POLICE JACKET_ SCOOTER LAFORGE FOR PATRICIA FIELD ARTFASHION_ AW2021 / T-SHIRT_ MODEL’S OWN

MALIK WEARS_ JEWELRY_ MODEL’S OWN / ‘TRASH DRESS’_ UPCYCLED POLYETHYLENE REMNANTS_ SEKS FIFTH_AVENUE FOR PATRICIA FIELD ARTFASHION_ FW2021 / BOOTS_ NEW ROCK_ MODEL’S OWN

LARA WEARS_ ‘RE(F)USE’ LACE DRESS_ UPCYCLED FROM VINTAGE GARMENTS WITH SCRAP EMBROIDERY_ ZAK PARMLEY_ FW2021 / ‘RE(F)USE’ COLLARED SHIRT_ UPCYCLED FROM DEADSTOCK DRESS SHIRTS_ ZAK PARMLEY_ FW2021 / ATHLETIC SOCKS_ NIKE_ STYLIST’S ARCHIVE / VINTAGE WOVEN COTTON AND LEATHER SLIPPERS_ STYLIST’S ARCHIVE

“My work is a bricolage of anything I can get my hands on. I tend to start with a base fabric: a garment or scrap of a nicer quality, then I add other pieces or fibers like plastic or shoddy. To add further depth to the textile, I always look to traditional craft methods such as quilting or embroidery.” — Zak Parmley is a Portland, Oregon designer who lives and works in Brooklyn. / @zakparmley_

MADELINE WEARS_ MOCK TURTLENECK_ STYLIST’S ARCHIVE / ‘NEWSPAPER PANT’_ NEWSPRINT AND ORGANZA_ MELISSA RIVA_ 2021 / BOOTS_ ALBRIGHT FASHION LIBRARY

MARLEE WEARS_ TANK TOP_ MODEL’S OWN / ‘NIXON KNITTED TROUSERS’_ UPCYCLED WITH E.L.V. DENIM SCRAPS AND GREEN GUY ROPES RECOVERED FROM THE DESIGNER’S OLD FAMILY TENT_ CHLOE BAINES_ SS2021 / SECOND-HAND SNEAKERS_ BRONX SHOES_ BEACON’S CLOSET

ABBY WEARS_ INFLATABLE ‘BUBBLE TOP’_ UPCYCLED FROM NYLON REMNANTS, TAPE, AND BATTERY-OPERATED FAN_ SANKIM_ FW2021/ DEADSTOCK SOVIET MEN’S BRIEFS_ STYLIST’S ARCHIVE

ABBY WEARS_ ‘SHAPED HIP ZIPPER HYBRID SUIT COAT’_ UPCYCLED FROM MEN’S WOOL TROUSERS_ MADE TO ORDER_ HODA KOVA / BOOTS AND SOCKS_ MODEL’S OWN

VALENTINE WEARS_ ‘EVRY COAT’_ DEADSTOCK LIGHT-REFLECTIVE TECHNICAL POLYESTER_ APOREEI_ AW2018 / TIGHTS_ MODEL’S OWN

JAY WEARS_ ‘DANGER POLICE’ JACKET_ CUSTOMIZED HAND-ME-DOWN LEATHER VINTAGE POLICE JACKET_ SCOOTER LAFORGE FOR PATRICIA FIELD ARTFASHION_ AW2021 / T-SHIRT_ MODEL’S OWN

Models_ ELLIE CHRISTEN / NYAYOP TOANG / MAYA WILLENER / JAY PAK / AOIFE MCGUIRE / KATIE HOZAK / MALIK BRAND / LARA PARK / MARLEE GUILLORY / ABBY BLAINE / VALENTINE / REESE THOMPSON / MADELINE WRIGHT / MADDIEMOOK RUFFIN 

Hair_ ADAM MARKARIAN

Casting_ STUDIO AT LARGE

STYLING ASSISTANT_ EMILY STONE

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