THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT

There are few vintage items more iconic than the band tee. We wear them to stand-out, to fit-in, to support the band (even if we don’t know the band). If you’re not yet familiar with Tyranny + Mutation, you’re probably familiar with the work of Rick Moe. He’s been sourcing rare and highly coveted band tees since the 90s and dressing icons on-the-low since the launch of his online storefront in 2012. From Justin Bieber’s 2016 Purpose World Tour and Jerry Lorenzo’s Fear of God, to Rihanna’s infamous street style, Tyranny + Mutation sources vintage band tees that celebrities and musicians alike want to wear and collect.

PHOTOGRAPHY_ JASON THOMAS GEERING

STYLING_ ALISON MARIE ISBELL 

INTERVIEW_ ANNIE DAHL

THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: VIC WEARS VINTAGE TEENAGE MUTANT NINJA TURTLES T-SHIRT ‘DONATELLO HERO IN A HALF SHELL’ 1988 (TYRANNY + MUTATION)  —  CLEMENTINE WEARS VINTAGE SILVER CHAIN WITH CHARM CLEMENTINE’S OWN / VINTAGE ALANIS MORISSETTE BAND TEE ‘INTELLECTUAL INTERCOURSE’ 1995 (TYRANNY + MUTATION)  —  MARCUS WEARS VINTAGE THRASHED T-SHIRT 1970S (STYLIST’S ARCHIVE) 

ANNIE DAHL: You’ve been in this business for a long time — 25 years to be exact. Your work with Jerry Lorenzo in the 2010s really put you on the map in a new way, how did that relationship start?

RICK MOE: Jerry Lorenzo discovered me in 2013 when I was working at What Goes Around Comes Around and he was in the early days of building his brand, Fear of God. Whenever someone would buy something from me, I’d see what they’d chosen and go, “Oh okay, they're into this kinda thing.” I think he originally bought three tees but they were very specific, like Metallica, that sort of thing, so I reached out to him not really knowing who he was. I said, “If you want more of this stuff I can get it. Just keep me posted.” And he reached back out pretty quickly. I would send him pictures of tees and he would buy them. As Fear of God brand grew, so did his orders. 

In 2015 when Jerry shouted me out in a GQ article the article had a direct link to my website — that basically gave me a full-time job. Before that, it was like these sketchy months where I'd spend everything I made buying more stuff. But after that, the orders were regular enough where I could build a business on it. And then in 2016 he credited me as co-curator for Justin Bieber's tour wardrobe. 

I mean it's funny because all that stuff is super expensive now. In a way, there are things I can't afford now because of me.

ANNIE: What kind of t-shirts were you sourcing back then? For Tyranny + Mutation and for Fear of God?

RICK: I don't think I've ever really changed my focus in the last 15-20 years. I just want to curate cool looking stuff. It doesn’t have to be band tees — I love a cool Harley Davidson t-shirt or a random oversized 90s threadbare blank.

In terms of sourcing band merch, I worked in record stores when I was in college and I love music so I know a lot about bands that nobody else knows about. I know why they're cool or which album is cool or which tour was cool, so, I think my knowledge has always gone a little deeper than surface level. Which helps.

ANNIE: You’ve seen vintage t-shirt sales and hype go through a multitude of transformations. What are your thoughts on seeing people try to do what you’ve been doing for decades?

RICK: I mean, especially, in the past 12 years there are a lot more people doing it and I don't see anything wrong with that. I don't feel very competitive. It's not worth it. I've always tried to stay in the background a bit. I never tried to use the exposure Jerry gave me as some sort of billboard. But at the same time I feel like a lot of people came to me because of him and it's a responsibility to find stuff for them because a lot of those people still buy from me. I provide a specific type of customer service. I think what I do is so much deeper because it's 25 years of experience. It's not just a shirt. There's a lot more to it. But you have to take the pill and go down the tunnel to find out what that is. It's still fun for me, which is important.

ANNIE: Do you still discover new music from the band tees you source?

RICK: Yeah, but it gets harder because the longer you do it the more you know. I’ll find a punk jacket with a band name on it, especially from another country… Australia has a big music scene, so I’ll see t-shirts from bands there that I’ve never heard of. I'm sure that'll happen next month. I'll find something that I didn't know about. I’ve found a lot of new music through vintage tees.

ANNIE: With the rise of band tee trends and retail chains reprinting band graphics, do you have a sense of whether your customers are actually into the music of the band on the tee that they’re buying?

RICK: I would say it's 50/50. I definitely have collectors who are way into music or they were at that tour, or at that show. I'll always be appealing to those people because I'm that person too. 

ANNIE: What Tyranny + Mutation t-shirt was Rihanna seen wearing?

RICK: Her stylist came by the showroom and picked up some stuff. Rihanna ended up wearing this Sex Pistols long sleeve shirt that was really ripped up on the front. She actually wore it as a mask. So she's looking through the rips in the front of the shirt. There's a picture of it on my Instagram somewhere where she's standing next to DJ Ross One.

ANNIE: How many t-shirts are in your personal collection and what are some notable favorites?

RICK: There’s probably somewhere between 200-300 tees in my personal collection at this point. In a fire, I probably would try and grab this 1977 Rolling Stones ‘Love You Live’ promotional t-shirt. The graphic is by Andy Warhol so it’s kind of a two-for-one rare collectible because it was given out at the record release party at Studio 54. I also have a Jesus Lizard t-shirt with a graphic of a crazy wolf with his tongue hanging out. That one's really cool. I have another one that's from when I worked at Buffalo Exchange — there was a brand that’s gone on to do a lot of movie wardrobing called Junker XL, but back then it was being run out of a garage. It’s just the coolest t-shirt. I’ve worn it for the last 20 years.

ANNIE: One of your specialties is being able to really nail what a client is looking for. Agreed?

RICK: I think that's fair. It speaks to my experience of wanting to provide products for clients while also staying specific to what I like. I’m not Ebay. It’s more specific and thought out. It’s not just a random shirt, it’s got character and is a specific size. And it’s the same aesthetic whether it’s punk, metal, classic rock, or what have you.

ANNIE: Is the art of the band tee dead?

RICK: I don't think the art will ever be dead. Like good music, a good graphic is appealing, right?

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: RUBY WEARS VINTAGE SATIN BOW TIE 1970S (STYLIST’S ARCHIVE) / VINTAGE RUFFLE TUXEDO SHIRT 1970S (STYLIST’S ARCHIVE) / VINTAGE LEATHER BELT WITH METAL BUCKLE 1990S (RUBY’S OWN) / VINTAGE WOOL TROUSERS 1990S (RUBY’S OWN) / VINTAGE LEATHER SNEAKERS 1990S (RUBY’S OWN) — EFRON WEARS VINTAGE LACE AND TULLE VEIL 1950S (STYLIST’S ARCHIVE) / VINTAGE R.E.M. BAND TEE ‘FABLES OF THE RECONSTRUCTION’ 1985 (TYRANNY + MUTATION) / VINTAGE LACE AND SATIN WEDDING DRESS 1980S (STYLIST’S ARCHIVE) / PATENT LEATHER MARY JANE PUMPS WITH RECYCLED SODA CANS CAREL PARIS 2010 (CUSTOMIZED BY STYLIST) / EARRINGS, NECKLACES, WRIST CUFFS, AND RINGS (EFRON’S OWN)

MARCUS WEARS VINTAGE MINK FUR COAT 1960S (STYLIST’S ARCHIVE) / VINTAGE LED ZEPPELIN ICARUS BAND TEE 1980S (TYRANNY + MUTATION) / UPCYCLED METAL BIKE LOCK BELT (CUSTOMIZED BY STYLIST) / ZEBRA PRINT DESTROYED DENIM JEANS HELMUT LANG 2017 (CUSTOMIZED BY STYLIST)

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: EFRON WEARS EARRINGS, NECKLACES, WRIST CUFFS, AND RINGS_ (EFRON’S OWN) / LEOPARD PRINT FAUX FUR SCARF Y2K (STYLIST’S ARCHIVE) / VINTAGE BROCADE AND FAUX FUR BLAZER 1980S (STYLIST’S ARCHIVE) / VINTAGE SANTANA BAND TEE ‘EMBRACE YOUR LIGHT’ TOUR 2005 (TYRANNY + MUTATION) / SKIRT UPCYCLED FROM ARMY JACKET AND SWEATPANTS 2024 IAIN MAHAFFEY / VINTAGE THERMAL MILITARY LEGGINGS 1960S (10FT SINGLE BY STELLA DALLAS) / STUDDED SUEDE SHEARLING BOOTS Y2K (EFRON’S OWN) — CLEMENTINE WEARS SILK ‘HBO’ VINTAGE SCARF 1980S (STYLIST’S ARCHIVE) / SCARF UPCYCLED FROM VINTAGE LEATHER FRINGE DRESS 1980S (CUSTOMIZED BY STYLIST) / VINTAGE GUNS N’ ROSES BAND TEE ‘USE YOUR ILLUSION’ 1991 (STYLIST’S ARCHIVE) / VINTAGE POLKA DOT HOT PANTS 1960S (SEARCH & DESTROY NYC) / VINTAGE SUEDE LEOPARD PRINT ANKLE BOOTS 1990S (DEPOP) — VIC WEARS VINTAGE CUT-OFF T-SHIRT HARLEY DAVIDSON 1980S (TYRANNY + MUTATION) / VINTAGE SEQUIN DRESS 1980S (STYLIST’S ARCHIVE) / UPCYCLED DUCT TAPE BOOTS 2024 IAIN MAHAFFEY — MARCUS WEARS VINTAGE MINK FUR COAT 1960S (STYLIST’S ARCHIVE) / VINTAGE LED ZEPPELIN ICARUS BAND TEE 1980S (TYRANNY + MUTATION) / UPCYCLED METAL BIKE LOCK BELT (CUSTOMIZED BY STYLIST) / ZEBRA PRINT DESTROYED DENIM JEANS HELMUT LANG 2017 (CUSTOMIZED BY STYLIST) — DANIEL WEARS EARRINGS, NECKLACES, WRIST CUFFS, AND RINGS (DANIEL’S OWN) / VINTAGE NIRVANA BAND TEE ‘KURT COBAIN TEENAGE’ 2002 (TYRANNY + MUTATION) / VINTAGE DENIM JEANS LEVI’S 501S 1980S (DANIEL’S OWN) / VINTAGE LEATHER BOOT DR. MARTENS 1990S (DANIEL’S OWN)

“I don't think I've ever really changed my focus in the last 15-20 years. I just want to curate cool looking stuff.” — Rick Moe, Tyranny + Mutation

ELENE WEARS VINTAGE THE STROKES JAPAN TOUR BAND TEE 2015 (TYRANNY + MUTATION) / TAP SHORTS UPCYCLED FROM ‘HANDLE WITH CARE’ TAPE 1980S AND TAP PANTS 1930S (CUSTOMIZED BY STYLIST) / DEADSTOCK HOSIERY MARY QUANT 1980S (DESERET INDUSTRIES) / VINTAGE PATENT LEATHER PUMPS 1980S (THE SALVATION ARMY)

EFRON WEARS VINTAGE PERUVIAN KNIT MOHAWK SKI HAT 1990S (STYLIST’S ARCHIVE) / VINTAGE RED HOT CHILI PEPPERS BAND TEE 1991 (TYRANNY + MUTATION)

GEORGE WEARS VINTAGE SILVER CHAIN (GEORGE’S OWN) / VINTAGE SILVERCHAIR BAND TEE 1995 (TYRANNY + MUTATION)

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: VIC WEARS VINTAGE TEENAGE MUTANT NINJA TURTLES T-SHIRT ‘DONATELLO HERO IN A HALF SHELL’ 1988 (TYRANNY + MUTATION) / VINTAGE LEATHER STUDDED BELT 1990S (VIC’S OWN) / VINTAGE DENIM JEANS LEVI’S 1990S (VIC’S OWN) — CLEMENTINE WEARS VINTAGE SILVER CHAIN WITH CHARM (CLEMENTINE’S OWN) / VINTAGE ALANIS MORISSETTE BAND TEE ‘INTELLECTUAL INTERCOURSE’ 1995 (TYRANNY + MUTATION) / VINTAGE LEATHER STUDDED BELT 1980’S (SEARCH & DESTROY NYC) / VINTAGE WOOL AND FOX TAIL SCARF WORN AS A BELT 1980S (STYLIST’S ARCHIVE) / SKIRT UPCYCLED FROM VINTAGE T-SHIRT 1970S (CUSTOMIZED BY STYLIST) / VINTAGE THERMAL MILITARY LEGGINGS 1960S (10FT SINGLE BY STELLA DALLAS) — MARCUS WEARS VINTAGE THRASHED T-SHIRT 1970S (STYLIST’S ARCHIVE) / SKIRT UPCYCLED FROM VINTAGE LEVI’S 1980S (CUSTOMIZED BY STYLIST)

DANIEL WEARS EARRINGS, NECKLACES, WRIST CUFFS, AND RINGS (DANIEL’S OWN) / VINTAGE CUT-OFF VENOM BAND TEE ‘BRAZILIAN ASSAULT’ 1986 (TYRANNY + MUTATION) / STUDDED AND JEWEL EMBELLISHED DENIM JEANS COMME DE GARCONS MAN x JUNYA WATANABE SPRING-SUMMER 2002 (ZACH FRIEDBERG)

“I’m not Ebay. It’s more specific and thought out. It’s not just a random shirt, it’s got character and is a specific size. And it’s the same aesthetic whether it’s punk, metal, classic rock, or what have you.” — Rick Moe, Tyranny + Mutation

CLEMENTINE WEARS SILK ‘HBO’ VINTAGE SCARF 1980S (STYLIST’S ARCHIVE) / SCARF UPCYCLED FROM VINTAGE LEATHER FRINGE DRESS 1980S (CUSTOMIZED BY STYLIST) / VINTAGE GUNS N’ ROSES BAND TEE ‘USE YOUR ILLUSION’ 1991 (STYLIST’S ARCHIVE) / VINTAGE POLKA DOT HOT PANTS 1960S (SEARCH & DESTROY NYC) / VINTAGE SUEDE LEOPARD PRINT ANKLE BOOTS 1990S (DEPOP) — DANIEL WEARS EARRINGS, NECKLACES, WRIST CUFFS, AND RINGS (DANIEL’S OWN) / VINTAGE NIRVANA BAND TEE ‘KURT COBAIN TEENAGE’ 2002 (TYRANNY + MUTATION) / VINTAGE DENIM JEANS LEVI’S 501S 1980S (DANIEL’S OWN) / VINTAGE LEATHER BOOT DR. MARTENS 1990S (DANIEL’S OWN)

VIC WEARS DRESS UPCYCLED FROM ARMY T-SHIRTS IAIN MAHAFFEY 2024 / UPCYCLED DUCT TAPE BOOTS IAIN MAHAFFEY 2024

ELENE WEARS TAP SHORTS UPCYCLED FROM ‘HANDLE WITH CARE’ TAPE 1980S AND TAP PANTS 1930S (CUSTOMIZED BY STYLIST) / DEADSTOCK HOSIERY MARY QUANT 1980S (DESERET INDUSTRIES)

PHOTOGRAPHY → JASON THOMAS GEERING / STYLING → ALISON MARIE ISBELL / HAIR → TSUKI / MAKEUP → ALLIE SMITH / TALENT → RUBY ALDRIDGE + EFRON DANZIG + MARCUS D’AQUINO + GEORGE EVE + CLEMENTINE IRIS + ELENE MAKHARASHVILI + DANIEL ROJAS + VIC VERMIN / STYLING ASSISTANT → ABRAHAM LESTER-BARRALLI / SPECIAL THANKS → GONZO’S STUDIOS NYC + MANAGEMENT ARTISTS + RICK MOE OF TYRANNY + MUTATION + STREETERS AGENCY

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